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7-String Guitar Tuner

A 7-string is standard E tuning with a low B underneath it — the six upper strings are unchanged, so every chord shape you already know still works. Pluck each string and centre the needle; the low B is the one that needs care, and this page explains why.

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Pano Tuner

The chips under the dial are the 7 targets for a 7-string. Tap one to hear it, or start the microphone and tune until it turns green. Audio is analyzed on your device and never leaves it.

Standard tuning with a low B underneath it

A 7-string in B standard is tuned B1–E2–A2–D3–G3–B3–E4 — which is exactly standard six-string E tuning with one string added a perfect fourth below the low E. The six upper strings are unchanged, in both pitch and spacing, so every chord shape, scale fingering and song you already know works untouched. That is the whole reason this tuning won out: it is additive rather than disruptive.

The interval pattern is also unchanged — fourths between all the low strings, with the familiar major third between the G and B. The low B is a fourth below E for the same reason the A is a fourth below the E above it, so the shapes you use to move between the bottom strings keep working when you extend them onto the seventh.

Try it7-string reference tones

Tune the six upper strings exactly as you would a normal guitar, then the low B last — it shifts most as the neck settles under the extra tension. Drop A changes only the 7th string.

The low B is the whole problem — and it isn’t a tuning problem

Everything above the seventh string behaves like a guitar because it is one. The low B is where extended range actually costs you something, and the symptom is specific: the note wavers in pitch on the attack, sounds loose or undefined when you pick hard, and refuses to intonate cleanly no matter how carefully you set it. This is the most common complaint from players moving up from six strings, and it is not something a tuner fixes — the tuner will happily tell you the string is at B1.

Two things actually control it. Gauge: a great many factory 7-string sets ship a .056 for the low B, which is genuinely too light to match the tension of the other six; moving to .059–.064 on that string alone is the cheapest meaningful fix. Scale length: a 25.5-inch neck is short for a 61.74 Hz string. At 26.5 or 27 inches the same gauge carries noticeably more tension, which is why most purpose-built 7-strings are longer than a standard guitar rather than the same length with an extra string squeezed on.

Tuning routine, step by step

  1. Tune the six upper strings first, exactly as you would a normal guitar — E2, A2, D3, G3, B3, E4. They are the identical pitches, so nothing here is new.
  2. Tune the low B last. It is the heaviest string and the one that moves the neck most, so doing it first means re-doing the others afterwards.
  3. Let the low B ring and read the sustain, not the attack. A thick string at 61.74 Hz takes a moment to settle, and the first fraction of a second after the pick is the least reliable part of the note to read.
  4. Make a second pass across all seven. Seven strings put meaningfully more tension on the neck than six, and the first pass moves the truss-rod balance enough that the strings you tuned first will have drifted.
  5. Check the low B fretted at the 12th fret against its open harmonic. If the fretted note reads sharp against the harmonic, that is intonation, not tuning — the saddle needs to move back, and no amount of retuning the open string will fix chords played up the neck.

Drop A and the other common alternatives

Drop A lowers only the 7th string a whole step to A1 (55 Hz) and leaves the other six exactly where they are — the same relationship Drop D has to standard tuning on a six-string, giving a one-finger power chord on the lowest string. Because it takes an already-low string lower, it makes the tension problem above worse rather than better; if your low B was marginal, Drop A wants a heavier string still.

A standard (A–D–G–C–F–A–D) lowers all seven strings a whole step together, keeping every interval intact — it is to a 7-string what half-step-down tuning is to a six-string, just twice as far. If you want to go lower than that as a permanent state rather than a detuning, an 8-string or a baritone is the better tool than a 7-string strung ever more heavily.

Frequently asked questions

Do my existing chord shapes and scales still work on a 7-string?

Yes, completely unchanged. B standard is standard six-string E tuning with a low B added a perfect fourth below the low E — the six upper strings are the identical pitches you already play, in the identical interval pattern. Every chord shape, every scale fingering and every song you know transfers with nothing relearned. The seventh string is an addition to the bottom of the range, not a rearrangement of it, which is exactly why this tuning became the standard rather than one of the more exotic alternatives.

My low B sounds floppy and unstable when I pick hard. Is that a tuning problem?

No — it’s almost always gauge and scale length, and it’s the single most common complaint from players moving up from six strings. A low B on a 25.5-inch scale simply doesn’t carry enough tension at a typical gauge; the note wobbles in pitch on the attack and won’t intonate cleanly no matter how carefully you tune it. Going up in gauge on that string alone is the cheapest fix — many factory sets ship a .056 that’s genuinely too light for a low B — and a 26.5- or 27-inch scale solves it properly. The tuner will read the string as in tune; that doesn’t mean the setup is right.

What is Drop A, and does it change the other strings?

Drop A lowers only the 7th string a whole step, from B1 down to A1 at 55 Hz, leaving the other six exactly where they were — the same relationship Drop D has to standard tuning on a six-string. It gives you a one-finger power chord on the lowest string and a heavier bottom end, and it costs you nothing on the rest of the neck. Be aware that it takes an already low string down further, so if your low B was already loose, Drop A will make that worse rather than better.

Should I get a 7-string or a baritone guitar?

Different answers to different problems. A 7-string adds range at the bottom while keeping your existing six strings exactly where they are, so you can still play everything you already play and reach lower when you want to. A baritone moves the whole instrument down a fourth or a fifth — same six strings, same shapes, but everything you play is transposed, and you don’t keep the standard-pitch strings at all. Pick the 7-string if you want to extend your range; pick the baritone if you want your whole sound to sit lower.

Prefer a bigger dial?

The same tuner runs full-screen — handy on a music stand, and it remembers your settings.

🎙 Open Full-Screen Tuner